Guilloche enamel originated from a mere mechanical engraving process that progressed to a celebrated and appreciated art form associated wholly with luxury and elegance. Guilloche enamel can only be created using machines called ornamental lathes.
The process of creating guilloche involves translucent enamel and engraving, where the translucent effect of the enamel allows the below engraving to be visible and accentuated with depth and play of light. The ornamental aspect of the lathes is also referred to as engine-turning, while engine-turned relates to the use of the lathes and how they function.
Techniques developed over centuries employed by Fabergé.
The process originally started in the 16th century and developed over time; it was from the mid-18th century that silversmiths began using the lathes to create intricate patterns that were extremely precise. The specific lathes used for metalwork are also referred to
as Rose engines, Tour á Guilloche and Decoration lathe. The beauty of these architectural designs was further enhanced by adding coloured glass powder, creating the enamel under high heat. While this process remained popular well into the 20th century, it was in the 1880s that Peter Carl Fabergé began using the process, particularly on the famous Fabergé eggs.
While machines create the engravings, they still require skilled artists to create the designs. There are multiple patterns used in guilloche, some of the most popular being waves, flinqué, sunburst and barleycorn. These specific patterns are created using the rose engine and the straight-line engine.
Silver has long been decorated with engine-turned decoration; however, the guilloche elevates this decoration turning relatively plain or mundane items into exquisite pieces.
An impressive range of silver items are decorated in this way, from coffee bean spoons to vanity sets to cigarette cases. Many guilloche pieces use the Art and Crafts, Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements, as the designs work well with and complement the guilloche.
Charles Horner, and Tiffany & Co guilloche pieces
Charles Horner was a silversmith famed for his work, particularly his work with guilloche. He, like Fabergé, focused on high-quality craftsmanship, ensuring his work was intricate with vibrant enamel, creating the impressive play of light effect guilloche is known for. Horner aided the increase in popularity of guilloche in Britain through his pieces. Similarly, the manufacturing silversmiths William Hutton & Son (they were later taken over by James Dixon & Sons) were well known for their Arts and Craft pieces.
Another well-known name is Tiffany & Co. While the name instantly brings jewellery to mind, they have a renowned selection of silversmiths and were the first American company to use the .925 sterling silver standard. Importantly, they were and still are at
the forefront of creating pieces synonymous with opulence and luxury. Part of this included using guilloche, with many of their pieces making excellent use of it in their designs during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Collecting guilloche pieces.
Guilloche enamel is still used and appreciated by contemporary artists for its historical connotations and general visual appeal. In modern use, it is particularly used in jewellery and watch dials. However, due to the work and skill involved in creating silver pieces with guilloche enamel, especially those in good condition, are highly sought after. This, along with guilloche’s historical and cultural significance, makes them exceptional pieces to collect.
Caring for guilloche pieces.
Care should be taken with guilloche items, as they can be susceptible to damage at the edges where the colour and delicate engraving are marred and discoloured. It should be cleaned with warm water and mild soap but excess moisture should be avoided using only a damp cloth, abrasive cleaning materials and substances should never be used. Additionally, care should be taken when on silver items to avoid getting silver polish on the enamel and ensure no damage occurs.
